Socializing Your Dog
Meeting and Introducing New Dogs
BEFORE YOU BEGIN! A good idea is to buy CBD oil Ultra Broad Spectrum for Dogs to help calm. A few drops in their cheek pouch will do.
Also Bach's Rescue Remedy. Give each dog (and human) a dose before starting. This will help calm everyone down (shake well first).
DO NOT BUY THE SPRAY. Shake and quickly squeeze the rubber dropper-top so a few drops squirt into dog's cheek pouch or on gums (you can even rub a little on their ear tips if a dog wont' let you put it in their cheek pouch). If a dog is aggressive, anxious, reactive or fearful, give a LOADING DOSE before the meeting (Four doses, each dose 15 minutes apart, shake well each time). That means start the dosing 1 hr before the session. No food or treats during this time. You can give Rescue with the CBD but give the CBD after the last loading dose. For big dogs, use the human formula. For smaller dogs, cats, reptiles, birds use the Pet Formula.
I use this method to help dogs integrate into new packs - or even friendly dogs just meeting new dogs. It helps to make the dogs more comfortable, and trust that their handlers are in control. Some dogs are very shy and fearful whereas other dogs can be very aggressive or reactive to new dogs. Be sure to take the dogs out for a poop/pee walk about 10-20 minutes before you do this training session so they are not too excited or wanting to smell and pee on everything during the session. Please read this in it's entirety before starting and have all parties handling the dogs become familiar with it. Always only do two dogs at a time and if there are other dogs, try to put them where they are not seen so as not to distract.
Ask the other person to have their dog on a leash and meet at a neutral territory like a large fenced area, meadow, arena, a large tennis court, a street or dirt road that does not have any traffic. Never in a yard that "belongs" to a dog or too close to their house - some dogs can still be territorial. Choose a place where you can have the two dogs walking for a pretty-good distance in a straight line with at least 7'-8' of space between you. Be sure each handler is calm and assertive and can keep the dog close to her side in a controlled manner [in a heel]. A nervous handler will make a nervous dog. Never bring dogs up to meet face to face or let them loose in your fenced yard "to work it out."
This exercise takes only your time and patience, about 20-30 minutes once or twice a day (or as often as needed) but sets the dogs up for success.
If you are introducing more than one dog to your dog, start with the most submissive and cooperative to set the stage of trust. The important thing to remember is DO NOT MOVE FORWARD on the walk if a dog is lunging, barking or excited. Just stand there calmly, give the proper corrections, and wait until the dogs settle down. Calmly stand in front facing them to "block" them if needed. This helps them relax to your calm assertive energy. If you can get them to SIT that is even better, but don't keep saying Sit Sit Sit! Do not start the walk until all dogs are calm. Your energy will transmit to the dog's energy so always talk in a low soothing voice or best - don't talk at all. Just use your body language.
Use a Martingale collar [Amazon link below] to avoid a dog slipping out of his collar and to have more control. Don't use a harness.[ The best Martingale collar is the one that looks like a normal 1" nylon collar but has a short section that is chain.] This allows for collar to act as a choke collar and can't slip off the dog's head if he tries to bolt, but will not harm his trachea like choke chains do because the chain is at the back of the neck. Martingales are only for training or leash-walking purposes so at the end of the session, remove the Martingale unless you are going for a walk. Do not allow the dogs to play with Martingale collars on as their teeth can get caught, but you can leave their regular nylon collars on.
Use a lightweight 6' leash and keep it very short (relaxed, not tense) so that the dog is next to you at all times (i.e. in a heel). If all goes well, at the end of the session you can use a 12' leash to give more freedom so the dogs can meet and walk together, sniffing, etc. If the dog is skitsy and scared and jumping around a lot, just stand there calmly saying nothing and keeping them close until they settle down.
Never integrate when the dogs are excited. With very aggressive or nervous dogs, you need to stay calm, confident and assertive. It's all done through body language and leash corrections, not scolding or yelling. If the dog is misbehaving, give a correction [quick tug] on the leash and do not move forward until dog is behaving. Stop each time he misbehaves. Do not scold the dog if he makes a mistake, and keep the commands to a minimum. Keep the dog at your side in a "heel," not out in front. And remember, never use the dog's name to correct him! [like Scout NO! or Scout STOP!]
If you have an aggressive dog - and if possible - use a well-behaved ambassador dog that is calm and confident for him to meet. A calm dog with a calm and confident handler always works best. Neither person should talk to his or her dog much. Talking to the dog focuses attention on the dog which can cause excitement, distraction or anxiety. They will also hear tension in your voice if you are a little nervous. Less talking, calmer dog. Just leash corrections. The humans can talk to each other all they want. Laughing is great as the dogs will feel everyone is relaxed. The idea is to keep them moving forward, get them to relax, smell the roses - and just getting used to having the other dog nearby.
Ok ready?
Step 1. VERY IMPORTANT
Start the walk with Humans on the Inside, Dogs on the Outside. Walk 7-8' apart, walking parallel to each other for about 40-50 feet. Keep the dogs well behaved and close at your side or slightly behind you - not out in front. This teaches them to "follow" you, not to lead. YOU are the leader. The humans can talk all they want to each other, but ignore the dogs except for body language and gentle leash tugs/corrections to keep the communication link. No excited talk either like "what a good girl!" Instead, a low toned, calm "Good Girl" is fine. This is not a poop/pee walk. Keeping the dogs calm will give a positive and successful experience.
Simply walk and see how they do. Wait until there is no hard focusing, barking or lunging (a little growl is ok if it does not progress to snarling. Many dogs "talk" or express themselves with growling). It is up to the handlers to keep them calm and moving forward. Once they are calm and walking parallel nicely, move to
Step 2. Switch so that it's Dog/Human/Dog/Human and continue walking parallel, up and back but far enough away from each other so the dogs can't reach each other (6' or so). Keep the pace fairly quick and focused, not too slow. Again, no talking to the dogs or correcting them with loud commands. Human talk should be low toned, calm, happy. Laughing is great. Dogs know when you are happy or anxious. It's ok if the dogs get bored. That's the idea. If there is no hard focusing, lunging, or trying to get to the other dog then move to ...
Step 3. Now put Dogs on the Inside, and Humans on the Outside but keep at least about 6' apart, and continue the exercise. If the dogs seem to be doing ok (i.e. calm, partially ignoring each other, partially curious) then
Step 4. Have the handler that is walking the more submissive dog walk up ahead in front. The handler with the more dominant, aggressive or insecure dog will walk up from behind to allow her dog to sniff the hind quarters of the dog in front. Slow a little but KEEP WALKING, do not slow down too much or stop. Make sure the handler in front keeps his dog from turning around and getting in the face of the dog behind. This is very important as the dog in front is trusting his handler to protect his butt. That's why you keep walking. The handler behind allows a short sniff of the butt, then slow down and back off (without hard pulling) and return to walking next to the dog for a few paces. Then do it again - the dominant dog sniffing the submissive dog's hindquarters in front while walking. After the dog in the back is comfortable, ignoring or just more relaxed, then switch positions. KEEP WALKING. Bring the submissive dog up to the hind quarters of the dominant dog. It's important to always keep the dog in front from stopping or turning around. If the dogs are relaxed and comfortable you can walk parallel again with the Dogs on the Inside and allow them to meet for a minute and sniff each other calmly. THIS PART IS VERY IMPORTANT. DON'T TRUST THAT THEY ARE "FINE" TOGETHER JUST YET. Keep it short, then start walking next to each other again about 5' apart. Forward movement keeps the brain focused on the walk, not each other. In doing this exercise they are learning to trust each other, and to trust their handlers. If all is going well and you are in a fenced area you can drop the leashes and let them meet on their own terms. If not in a secure area, then just let out more of the long leashes and allow them to meet more personally. Then take a "fun" walk together, allow them to sniff and pee, and follow your instincts. Keep leashes loose at all times to prevent tension.
For more aggressive dogs: If you don't feel comfortable with the dogs actually meeting closely, then don't. Always end a session on a successful experience so if they have a disagreement, go back to the Step that was successful before you end this session and give them praise. You may have to end the sessions a few times without them meeting closely, that's ok. Repeat the exercise starting with Step 1 again another day or later, and continue with all steps until the dogs feel comfortable with each other. The routine will give them familiarity, comfort and trust. Keep the close-up meetings short and sweet. Best not to allow them to play together right away as play can lead to excitement and dominance posturing. Always best to go for hikes to expend their energy.
VERY IMPORTANT - keep the leashes as relaxed as possible while at the same time, keeping the leash SHORT keeps them next to you... i.e. no tension on the leash, just keep the dogs under control with gentle leash corrections [tugs]. Tension begets tension and we want relaxed doggies and humans. The leash should be slack and relaxed and for more anxious dogs you can hold the leash closer to the dog's neck [about 6+ inches away] so you can have control in an instant. Pay attention to the tension on the leash every now and then. We tend to get tense and don't realize we are holding tight to the leash.
Good luck and have fun with this. Relax. Take a few deep breaths frequently. Do this exercise a few times with the same dogs each time they meet, not just once or twice. Socializing your dog will make them happy, less anxious, and more balanced.
NOTE: *** If you find that a dog is still trying to lunge and is not behaving, just continue to do the step that is successful even if you have to go back to the previous step, or stay on Step 1 for a while. The important thing to remember is DO NOT START on the walk if the dog is lunging, barking or snarling. Just stand there, give the proper corrections, and wait until the dog settles down. Don't forget the Rescue Remedy. If you can get him to SIT that is even better. Do not start the walk until all dogs are calm. Even if you have to wait a long time, he will finally get the message that he will not walk forward until he is calm. If you find the dog is not settling down, try changing handlers. I have found that some dogs do not feel comfortable with some handlers especially if the handler is a little nervous.
If for some reason somebody looses control and the dogs get into an altercation, pull them apart with the leashes, or if you can't, PULL TAILS, do not attempt to grab collars or get between. Pull them apart slowly and calmly. Take a deep breath, laugh, and start STEP 1 again! Never never leave on a negative experience as that is what they will remember. Always leave the scene on a successful experience even if you have to leave after Step 1 over and over. And remember to praise the dog when he is calm. Reward calmness, and don't say "It's Ok" if it's not.
Martingale collars:
HAVE FUN! 📷📷